If storage space is an issue look for handles that fold down and a collapsible collection box rather than a solid one. Mechanical aerator – go for strong, good-sized blades and a collection box.The spikes should also be at least 5cm long to ensure they penetrate the ground deeply. Manual rolling drum – ideally you want a good number of metal spikes on the drum to create plenty of holes – as a guide, 27 spikes will give you about 180 spikes per square metre.Manual hollow tine – look out for strong, solid tines that will cope with compacted turf, a decent tread to prevent your foot from slipping, and a soft-grip handle for comfort.Like cordless, they do mean you’re free to roam wherever needed, but they’re noisier than the battery-powered alternative, not as good for the environment and will need more in the way of general maintenance, with regular servicing to keep them in tip top working order.ĭepending on the type of aerator you’re going to choose, there are several key features to look for: Petrol aerators: Often the most powerful models, this comes with the inconvenience of using messy, expensive petrol.While they don’t have a restrictive cable and are therefore ideal for accessing all areas of the garden, it’s important to be aware of their charge and run times, as this could limit their effectiveness if you have a larger garden. Cordless aerators: Lightweight, quiet and an environmentally-friendly alternative to petrol types, the downside to buying cordless tools is that they can cost more, and the batteries and chargers are sometimes an additional cost.Most come with a collection box, which is a useful, time-saving feature, but the cord length can be restrictive as well as potentially hazardous. ![]() Electric corded aerators: Lightweight, quiet and often at the budget-end, these are best suited to small and medium-sized gardens with a power supply.When it comes to choosing whether you go for an electric, cordless or petrol aerator, consider the pros and cons that are associated with each type: Mechanical aerators are quite an investment too, as you’re using them twice a year at the most - even if they’re a 2-in-1 combination of aerator and scarifier – and they require more space to store than the other alternatives. These blades create shallow slits rather than deep holes, and although they will help maintain a healthy lawn, by allowing air and water to move through this top layer of soil, they won’t improve your lawn if it’s compacted or you have heavy clay. However, it’s important to note these mechanical aerators don’t aerate in the same way that a manual aerator does - they use metal blades rather than spikes or tines. They're also almost always available as part of a 2-in-1 combination machine that scarifies as well, so you get two jobs done for the price of one. Powered Aerators – the obvious advantage of using these is that they’re labour saving.Manual Rolling Drum Aerators – these are time and labour saving, as you simply walk across the lawn pushing the roller.But they’re cheap, and a great idea if you’re after a workout. Manual aerators - although these are useful tools, which can do specific jobs (see above), using them requires a lot of effort as it gets tiring, even on a small lawn.Spike shoes - these are cheap and easy to use and most effective on soft – but not soggy - ground in small gardens. ![]() There are four types of aerator, each with their own pros and cons: Types of lawn aerators: the different ways to aerate your lawn ![]() Whether you’re pushing a roller covered in spikes, or using a powered machine, these aerators are a labour-saving version of the trusty garden fork, mechanically making a series of holes in the lawn. However, if you have a lot of lawn and not much time, other types of aerator are probably the best option. In small lawns a simple garden fork can be used, in either the spring or autumn, to push holes into the ground but you can also buy manual aerators, either solid or hollow tined, which require the same effort as a fork. Aeration is the process of making air holes in the lawn to create ventilation. Scarifying your lawn will help remove thatch and debris, but if you need to relieve compacted soil underneath the turf, it's best to aerate it. This undesirable combination prevents air, water and nutrients from reaching deep down to the grass’ root system and ultimately weakens its growth, leaving the plant susceptible to pests and diseases. Regardless of how often you cut your lawn, over time the soil underneath the turf becomes compacted, while above ground a thick, impenetrable layer of thatch and organic debris develops around the roots.
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